|
Walking Tour of Annapolis Yields Historic Fabric of Colonial America By George Medovoy, Editor (In an aerial view, the Maryland State House above, where members of the Maryland State Legislature meet, is surrounded by the town's historic architecture. All photos courtesy the Annapolis and Anne Arundel County Conference and Visitors Bureau, unless otherwise noted) "You've got an old wench as your guide today." I was surprised by those words, but for Pat Howard, dressed in Colonial American costume, it was all part of a performance courtesy of Annapolis Tours and Watermark Cruises. About a dozen of us, including my son, an attorney in Washington, D.C., had gathered together that sunny day for a walking tour of Annapolis, the Colonial town on Chesapeake Bay founded in 1649 as Anne Arundel Town in memory of the beloved wife of Lord Calvert, proprietor of the Maryland colony. A Town Named for the Queen of England Fifty years later, the town's name had been changed to Annapolis, or "Anne's City," for Anne, the future queen of England, and by 1783 it had taken on national prominence as the first peacetime capital of the fledgling United States of America.
(You're never far from water in Annapolis, which is bordered on the east by Chesapeake Bay, the largest estuary in the U.S. No wonder this is such a great town for seafood!) Annapolis is bordered to the east by the Chesapeake Bay, the largest estuary in the U.S., which produces 500 million pounds of seafood per year, some of which is enjoyed in the town's fish restaurants. The bay and its tributaries also have around 11,684 miles of shoreline - more than the entire West Coast. The Annapolis historic district contains more 18th-century buildings - including the homes of all four Maryland signers of the Declaration of Independence -- than any other city in the nation. Narrow Streets with Colorful Boutiques
(The old town's historic streets are within view from this old gun on a hillside. George Medovoy photo) The district's charming, narrow streets -- perfect for walking -- are filled with colorful boutique shops set in Georgian buildings known for their classic symmetrical design. As we walked down Prince George Street, Howard reminded us that in Colonial times such a walk might not be so leisurely, since people back then had the custom of dumping the contents of their chamber pots out of upstairs windows!
(The narrow, old streets offer colorful boutique shops. George Medovoy photo) Annapolis really does believe in historic preservation…of the architectural type, of course. A good example is found at the corner of Prince George Street and Maryland Avenue, where an abandoned church building, rather than be demolished, is being renovated with shops downstairs and condos upstairs.
(Rather than tear down this old church, the town has renovated it with shops downstairs and condos upstairs. George Medovoy photo) Across the street is
the three-story Georgian house where Francis Scott Key, the author
of America's national anthem, was married.
(The three-story Georgian-style house where Francis Scott Key was married. George Medovoy photo) Founded in 1696 as King William's School, the college was the site of Revolutionary War encampments and today enjoys the distinction of being the third oldest institution of higher learning in the United States. The college's undergraduate program is a mandatory course of study based on the great books of the Western tradition, with four years of seminar, four years of language, four years of math, three years of laboratory science, and one year of music. The course of study begins with the Greeks in freshman year and continues to the 21st century in senior year. Naval Academy vs St. John's in Croquet The U.S. Naval Academy is the college's neighbor. Howard told us an amusing story about the croquet tradition between the two schools. It seems that several students from St. John's had met some midshipmen at a local bar, and one of the midshipmen boasted that Navy could beat them at any sport. A St. John's student then challenged Navy to a croquet match, which St. John's won. Since then, the two schools have competed in croquet every April. This year the midshipmen prevailed 3-2, only their fifth victory in the event's 23-year history.
(Our colorful guide, Pat Howard, was dressed in the clothes of the Colonial period. George Medovoy photo) At one point during our
tour, my curiosity got the better of me, so I decided to ask Howard
how she got into the tour business. It turns out she is a retired lawyer with a strong interest in Maryland history. "It's a lot like being in court," she said. "You dress up and talk a lot, hoping to convince people." Howard explained that Maryland was a small colony lodged between "two giants," Massachusetts and Virginia. "We're just kind of quiet in the middle," she chuckled. "But there was a little trouble over the Potomac River - we own it."
(The steeple of St. Anne's Church. Founded in 1692, the old church can be visited on a tour of Annapolis) Near the center of town, we visited St. Anne's Church, founded in 1692 and which still has a silver communion service dating from that year. A Tolerant Colony The rulers of the colony were a tolerant group, and while their own religion was Catholic, they preferred to keep religious affiliation outside of politics, declaring that Christians should be able to worship as they pleased. St. Anne's was also the home church of three signers of the Declaration of Independence: Samuel Chase, William Paca, and Thomas Stone. A fourth Annapolis individual was Charles Carroll, the only Catholic to sign it. Stone, who favored reconciliation with the British as late as June of 1776, was the youngest Maryland signer at age 33. And it was Paca who helped to organize the local Sons of Liberty in a protest against the 1765 Stamp Act. The homes of each of the Maryland signers have been preserved; those of Paca, Carroll and Chase are open to the public. Historic Reynolds Tavern Across the way from the church at 7 Church Circle we found Reynolds Tavern, where Wes and Marilyn Burge serve food and drinks in a restored tea room and pub first opened in 1747 by William Reynolds, a hatter and dry goods salesman who leased the building from the church.
(Reynolds Tavern is a restored Colonial tea room first opened in 1747. George Medovoy photo)
The current establishment has a pub in the cellar, a tearoom on the first floor, including al fresco seating, and four bed-and-breakfast rooms on the third level. In Colonial times, farmers, gentlemen, merchants and soldiers would gather here to play games of cards, chess and backgammon. On a bluff above the town, we found more history at the Maryland State Houose, the oldest state capitol still in continuous legislative use in America. Here the Continental Congress met in 1783, rather than at Princeton, to avoid a group of disgruntled, unpaid American soldiers marching on their commander-in-chief, George Washington. The State House is also where Washington formally resigned his commission in the army, after which those in attendance reportedly drank prodigious quantities of rum at a party given in his honor. At the top of a stairway leading to the second floor, I saw a large painting of Washington, depicting him giving his resignation speech. Meeting the Governor of Maryland As we were leaving the State House, we happened to meet Maryland Governor Robert L. Erhlich Jr., who was ambling through the lobby quite casually in slacks and a sweater, accompanied by a press aide and a security man. My son and I stopped to chat with him about travel, and we ended up snapping a photo together.
(From left, George Medovoy, son Jeremy, and Maryland Governor Robert L. Erhlich Jr. at the Maryland Legislature. Postcards photo) Outside the State House, a statue of Thurgood Marshall recalls the late U.S. Supreme Court justice's important connection to Annapolis. In 1930, Marshall had applied to the University of Maryland Law School, but was rejected on racial grounds and attended Howard University Law School, instead. Three years later, he scored his first major courtroom success at the Maryland Court of Appeals, here in Annapolis, successfully arguing that it was unlawful to deny another African-American, Donald Gaines Murray, admission to the University of Maryland Law School because of race.
(A statue of the late Justice Thurgood Marshall stands outside the Maryland State House. George Medovoy photo)
From the State House,
we walked to the U.S. Naval Academy. We walked across the campus, known as "the Yard," to Bancroft Hall (or "Mother B"), the largest dormitory in the United States and home to an entire brigade of midshipmen. Here we saw an example of the midshipmen's sparse quarters. "I Have Not Yet Begun to Fight" We also stopped at the chapel, which contains the crypt and sarcophagus of the Revolutionary War hero John Paul Jones, who spoke the immortal words, "I have not yet begun to fight."
(The chapel at the U.S. Naval Academy is the final resting place of Revolutionary War hero John Paul Jones. George Medovoy photo) Howard told us that Jones was first buried in Paris, and when America wanted to bring his remains home, no one knew if he could be positively identified. As it turned out, however, in Paris Jones was buried in brandy - and thus perfectly preserved! When the tour ended, my son and I headed down to the wharf and wandered around a bit until we chose one of many fish restaurants for lunch.
(There are many fish restaurants from which to choose in Annapolis. George Medovoy photo)
After our meal, we walked to the water's edge to look at a four-piece sculpture of Alex Haley, the author of the Pulitzer Prize-winning novel Roots, shown telling several children about Kunte Kinte, the African slave brought to Annapolis in 1767 on the ship, the Lord Ligonier.
(By the water's edge is a four-piece scupture of Alex Haley, shown telling several children the story of Kunte Kinte)
It was yet another reminder of the historic fabric of this Colonial town on Chesapeake Bay. IF YOU GO… Annapolis is approximately 45 minutes from Washington, D.C., where we rented a car for our trip. Other useful information: Annapolis and Anne Arundel County Conference and Visitors Bureau: (888) 302-2852 or visit www.visitannapolis.org. Annapolis Tours and Watermark Cruises: (410) 268-7600 or visit www.watermarkcruises.com. Annapolis and U.S. Naval Academy tours by costumed "Colonials" daily April - October by reservation. Reynolds Tavern: (410) 295-9555 or visit www.reynoldstavern.org. (Click below for more travel stories!)
|
||
 |
