On the Trail of Israel's Boutique Wineries

(Israel's wineries rank among the finest in the world. In this article about the country's boutique wineries, Israeli Adam Montefiore discusses some exciting new developments. For those planning a visit to Israel, the country's wineries, including its boutique operations, represent a wonderfully tasteful detour of sorts along the country's recently opened pathways of fine wine...and food. Adam's email address is below, and he is happy to answer any questions from wine devotees around the world. -- Editor)

By Adam Montefiore
export@carmelwines.co.il

Carmel Winery of Israel, the country's largest winery, has closed agreements with some of Israel's leading boutique wineries to represent them in export markets.

The boutique wineries include Castel, Amphorae, Bazelet Ha'Golan, Chillag, Saslove, and Tsora. Carmel's own boutique wineries, Yatir, and the new boutique winery at Zichron, will be added to this group.

Carmel has gathered together a select group of wineries representing different regions and different wine styles --and each with their own individual personality. Where possible, the wines will be distributed together, and even where existing agreements exist, joint public relations and marketing events will be held.

David Ziv, CEO of Carmel, noted that Carmel's "aim is to show the quality and variety of the Israel wine industry and with the boutique wineries and Carmel together, to advance the image of Israel as a quality wine producing country."

Carmel is Israel's oldest wine exporter, having set up its first export company, "Carmel Wine Company," in 1895. Today, it remains Israel's number one producer and exporter of wine, selling to over 40 countries on five continents.

The Boutique Wineries:

Amphorae Vineyard - Founded in 2000 and already ranked as Israel's third best winery and given two stars in The Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine Encyclopedia 2004. Situated high up on Mount Carmel, south of Haifa near the Mediterranean (northwest of Israel.). The winemaker Gil Shatzberg was trained at the University of California at Davis. (Wines - not kosher).

Bazelet ha Golan - Founded in 1998/9. Categorised as 'new up-and-coming winery' in the World Wine Report 2004. Situated on Kidmat Zvi Moshav (a moshav is a cooperative farm) on the Golan Heights. Winemaker Assaf Kedem, who was taught by an associate winemaker of the nearby Golan Heights Winery, also has had winemaking experience in South Africa. (Wines - not kosher).

Domaine du Castel - Ranked as Israel's leading winery and given three stars in The Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine Encyclopedia 2004. Three times 'Wine of the Month' in Decanter Magazine; invited to the Decanter Fine Wine Show - open to the world's finest wineries by invitation only.

Castel is a family estate winery founded in 1988 and situated in the Judean Hills overlooking Jerusalem. Owner Eli Ben-Zaken and son Ariel, who trained in Burgundy, are Francophiles. The winery was 'found' by Serena Sutcliffe, MW, Head of Sotheby's Wine Department. (Wines - kosher from 2003 harvest; until release of 2003 wines - not kosher).

Chillag Wine - Ranked as " Best Value Producer" in World Wine Report 2004. One of Israel's very few women winemakers, owner Orna Chillag studied oenology in Italy and did her stage at Antinori. She is a member of " Le Donne Del Vino' - the Italian organization for women winemakers. (Wine not kosker, but there will be a kosher wine from 2003 harvest.)

Saslove Winery -Ranked "Fastest Improving Producer" in the World Wine Report 2004. A family winery situated in the Sharon Plain near Kfar Saba. Owner, Canadian born Barry Saslove, who trained at Davis, is one of the main wine educators in Israel. His vineyard is in the Upper Galilee. The winery was founded in 1998. (Wines not kosher, but there will be kosher wine from 2003 harvest).

Tzora Vineyards - Ranked first in a tasting of best Israeli wines by Jancis Robinson, MW, in 2002. Tzora is a kibbutz winery (kibbutz - collective farm), founded in 1992. It manages its own vineyards, which are in the Samson and Judean Hills region.

Winemaker Roni James is self-taught. The well-established vineyards of Kibbutz Tzora were associated with Carmel before the winery was formed. (Middle of transition from non-kosher to kosher - both currently available.)

Carmel's two boutique Wineries - wines not yet released:

Yatir Winery - Jewell in Carmel's crown. Boutique winery situated close to Tel Arad in the northeastern Negev Hills. The nearby vineyards are high up in Yatir Forest, Israel's largest forest, in the southern Judean Hills. Winemaker is Australian trained Eran Goldwasser.

First release eagerly awaited. ("Very promising," according to Hugh Johnson, 2004 Wine Encyclopedia.) Wine to be released in February 2004.

Zichron - As yet un-named new boutique winery situated at the Zichron Ya'acov Winery. First vintage 2003. Vineyards - Upper Galilee and Golan Heights. Winemaker - Sam Soroka, Canadian who worked for Hardy's & Wynn in Australia and Charles Krug in California.

About the Israel Wine industry:

Carmel remains the largest winery in Israel. The biggest producer, the biggest exporter and its wineries, Rishon Le Zion & Zichron Ya'acov, are the two biggest in Israel.

The creation of two boutique wineries - one in the north and one in the south - is designed to produce hand-crafted wines from single premium vineyards, a change of direction for Carmel.

During the 1990's there was a real wine boom in Israel. There are now over 100 wineries in the country, with most of the boutique wineries being 'garagistes' and over 75 percent of them founded in the last 10 - 15 years. Planting of vineyards and consumption also doubled in this time.

The combination of Carmel and the boutique wineries is intended to present ' the very best of Israel.' There will be joint tastings, shared stands at exhibitions, invitations to journalists to visit, winemakers dinners, etc. The objective is to show Israel as a quality wine producing country.

Note: Some of the wineries already have their own distributors in various countries. In instances like this, their wines might not be distributed alongside Carmel's. However, the marketing and public relations will be combined to advance the brand ' Israel.'

For more information about the wines of Israel, click here.

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