Cuba Could Be in Your Future

By Arnie Greenberg
ultours@aol.com

Did you ever think that Cuba might be in your future as a traveler?

Neither did I, but I found out that as a Canadian, (I live in Montreal), I can go to Cuba whenever I want.

One winter it became a reality. Friends asked us to join them, and since we had no other plans, off we went. We flew directly to the small airport at Varadero, just a short ride from Havana.

I was unimpressed with the area around the airport, even though the terminus was modern. I always had the feeling that I was moving in a very low-income area.

The Varadero beach area proved to be just the opposite. Here was a line of modern, new white or pink hotels spread out along a beach that ranks with the best in the world.

It is 20 miles long, and the beige sand is thick, clean and cool. This area is only for tourists, but it is easy to walk or rent a bicycle in the nearby villages for an ice cream or for cigars. This is obviously why many people go there.

My traveling partner, a cigar expert, was on the lookout for that 'great buy'. There were stores with huge humidors filled with every great Cuban make you could think of. The average price at that time was about $65 US for Montecristo #4 per box of 24, but #1, which is a larger cigar, was a little more expensive.

Beach vendors sold what might be called counterfeit cigars for the tourist, much better than what is sold in North America, but hardly as good as the Cohibas available to the public and advertised as Castro's favorite cigar.

My friend ended up buying cigars directly from our bus driver. They were the best bargain on the island. Here in Canada, where Cuban cigars are readily available, one might spend $20-$25 or more (Canadian) for one Cohiba.

But I didn't go to Cuba for cigars, so let's move on.

Cuba has a lot to offer if you are not on the lookout for upscale shops and beautiful towns. Havana looks like a disaster zone, since 90% of the buildings haven't had a fresh coat of paint since Castro arrived.

While there are not many cars on the roads -- the majority are old Chevys (circa 1956) kept on the road with wire and a prayer -- they, too, could use paint jobs.

But there are interesting places to visit that are unique to Cuba. The fortress in Havana harbor is one example that is worth a visit.

I selected Ernest Hemingway's home, Finca Vigia. I found it exciting to look at his desk, his typewriter and rifle bullets. I especially enjoyed seeing The Pillar, his boat. During the war, he went out looking for enemy submarines, which was probably the only way he could get gas to go fishing.

His presence is still very much there. He befriended Castro and was often involved in fishing competitions. His home was in surprisingly good condition, but had to be seen from the outside through open windows only.

Just outside Havana there is a craft center for foreigners only. The center accepts only foreign currency, and the goods are a bargain. Otherwise, this is not a shopping island.

The day we went to Havana, our tour guide proudly pointed out the one-time home of Scarface Al Capone, a solidly built stone house and in a very prestigious location, but hardly what I might have expected for the man who once tried to carve the whole of the United States into territories for his illegal aspirations. The guide was more impressed than I was.

We chose to spend most days on the wonderful beach or around the hotel pool. There were all sorts of activities available, such as tennis, golf, cycling, mopeds, horseback riding and different water sports.

The food, while hardly gourmet, was passable, especially the lobster tail lunches, for which we paid extra. Everything else was served buffet style.

The bars were open especially between the hotel dance floor and outdoor floorshow. As expected, the entertainers were upbeat, filled with enthusiasm and not difficult to look at, as they shook their bikini clad bodies to the tempo of the ever-present Rumba.

On New Years Eve, there was a special show that lasted well into the night. The special midnight dinner was the best meal we had while there.

While the hotel was new and comfortable, I have seen better almost everywhere I've been. But that's no reason to stay away. It's also no reason to rush on down. So bide your time, but don't discount it altogether. It could be one of the better holiday spots of the future, and it's so close by.

From Montreal, a week in Varadero, all inclusive, was about $800 US. We stayed at the Gaviota, but by the time you get there, I'm sure there will be a better selection.

(Click below for more travel stories).