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Sitting on Top of the World at San Francisco's Hotel Drisco By George & Ninette Medovoy, Editors We opened the window of our room at the Hotel Drisco and watched the drapes puff up in the late afternoon breeze…just like sails on a ship at sea. We were sitting "on top of the world," so to speak, at the peak of the Pacific Heights neighborhood, where the Edwardian-style Hotel Drisco fits unobtrusively into a quiet area of historic homes. One Frank Drisco built this comfortable boutique hotel in 1903, originally naming it the El Drisco to give it an international flavor. The original name is still seen at the entrance. The hotel's location in a residential neighborhood means you're away from the hustle and bustle of the city…but close enough if you need some of the action "down the hill." The Drisco's 43 rooms and 19 suites were restored in 1977 in a multi-million dollar renovation with creamy yellow colors and mahogany-themed furniture. Modern amenities include bathrobes, slippers, hair dryers, data ports, two-line telephones, personalized voicemail, compact desk stereos, video cassette players, an in-house fitness room and nightly turndown service. Downstairs, an elegantly appointed sitting room offers daily newspapers, magazines, fresh coffee and tea, and a place to spend a quiet moment.
(Enjoy breakfast in the Drisco's dining room downstairs) We began our day in the hotel's dining room, where the management serves a complimentary breakfast of fresh pastries, fruit and cereals, and specialty coffees. Later on, we set out to see the neighborhood's historic homes and then headed down the Lyon Street Steps, which border on the Presidio forest, to do some more exploring. These steps are one of many outdoor stairways, which help San Franciscans navigate their hilly neighborhoods. We found a very helpful little guidebook called A Neighborhood Walk of Less Than a Mile, written by Marilyn Straka of On the Level Excursions. Her publication includes 20 points of interest to be seen along the way. Thanks to Straka, we learned that some of the homes in Pacific Heights were designed by the late Willis Polk, an architect who came to San Francisco following the 1906 earthquake and "played a very important part in the rebuilding effort, designing both public and private structures."
(The colorful views along the walk offer a taste of San Francisco's architectural history) The first historic home we saw was actually right across the street from the Drisco. The two-story dwelling -- the former residence of the famous coffee king Ernest Folger -- is by all outward appearances fairly modest in size and has a Baroque transom over its entry. Further
along the way, we stopped to gaze at a palatial home at 2820 Pacific, which Polk
set back a distance from the street. Griffith apparently needed a lot of help, Straka tells us: "four servants at all times, a man to do the laundry and tend the fires, a cook to prepare meals and do the marketing, and two maids who cleaned upstairs." Next, we came upon a house at 2950 Pacific that stands out from the rest because of its Cape Cod colonial shingle design. According
to Straka, the owners were in the shipping business and modeled the third floor
of their home to match a ship's cabin interior. Looking down at you from a rocky hill, ths home was built in 1929, the very year the Depression hit. Because
it stands on top of a massive outcropping, its foundation actually had to be chained
to the rocks to keep the structure stable. You could swear the silver figure came straight out of Star Wars, but who knows?
(It looked like something straight out of Star Wars) Down the street, at 2950 Broadway, you can peek through a closed gate at the home, circa 1915, of the late Marvin Belli, the colorful San Francisco attorney.If you really squint, you can see through the large front window and into a large room with its splendid view of San Francisco Bay. Our favorite home of all on this tour is a lovely pink stucco mansion, which looks more like something that might be nestled on the Riviera. Built in 1912 next to the Presidio woods after a design by Polk, the entrance to this villa-like beauty is decorated, as if in a painting, with colorful flowers and four palm trees.
(The entrance to the villa-like beauty was adorned by palm trees) Absorbed in the color of this magical setting, we imagined ourselves somewhere on the shores of the sunny Mediterranean, far away from the City by the Bay.
(The colors suggested the south of France) From the "villa," you have a choice: you can walk through the Presidio gate and wander into the forest, or you can take the Lyons Street Steps all the way down to Green Street. We chose the steps, stopping part of the way down at a peaceful water fountain in front of a large home, but the joggers ignored me and continued running up and down the steps. It tired me just watching them! We
continued at a slower pace, making our way to the shops and cafes of Chestnut
Street in the yuppie Marina neighborhood.
(Joggers make their way up the steps, while others go at a slower pace) But we didn't return by way of the steps.We chose a neighborhood bus, which dropped us off within easy walking distance of the Drisco, and there we found comfy chairs in the parlor with a warm cup of tea. We both envied those brave souls who could run up and down the steps and vowed to come back and give it a try…some day, but at a beginner's pace! IF YOU GO… For more information on the Hotel Drisco, call (800) 634-7277 or visit www.hoteldrisco.com. The hotel is part of a group of unique Bay Area boutique hotels (www.jdvhospitality.com). The hotel offers complimentary use of the Presidio YMCA Fitness Center and also has an in-house fitness room. Morning town car service is available to Union Square or the Financial District Monday - Friday from 7:30 a.m. - 9 a.m. Overnight shoeshine is also available. To
find out about On the Level Excursions, call (415) 776-1253 or visit www.OnTheLevelSF.com. (Click below for more travel).
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