Reaching Back to Remember the Jews of Greece

By Arnie Greenberg, ultours1@gmail.com

(Photo by Arnie Greenberg: A lovely old synagogue on Rhodes)

It's difficult to imagine that 65,000 Greek Jews, or 87% of the total Jewish population, died during World War II.

Imagine that their property, businesses, art treasures and libraries were confiscated and plundered. The synagogues and cemeteries were destroyed in an effort to erase the existence and memory of 2,300 years of Jewish life.

In Thessalonica alone, 48,674 of the Jewish population was deported to the extermination camps. The statistics are gruesome. Only 1950 returned, resulting in a loss of 97% of the community. Even as far south as Rhodes, the Jews were deported as late as 1944.

The Jewish Museum in the heart of Athens was set up as a place to honor and remember those who died, those who created the original communities, those who worked, loved, raised families and did business for over 2000 years.

That community is only a skeleton of its original population, but through this wonderful museum, we can reach back, understand and remember.

Founded in 1977 in order to collect and preserve material evidence of Jewish life in Greece, the museum proudly occupies a new building with 800 square meters of space.

The rich collection of artifacts and memorabilia allows visitors to enjoy the memories of the old synagogues, the Jewish Holidays, traditions, customs, crafts and life through photographs, archives, paintings and documents.

But it is not a dry, reserved display. It is alive with the colors and tastes of ancient and modern Greek Jewry. The periodic exhibitions explore history, identity and social attitudes. They sponsor art, literature, music and all forms of human expression.

The museum is timeless, multifaceted and educational -- a monument to a community of survivors who want to keep their history alive. It is a must for every visitor to this ancient city.

There are 7500 original artifacts, photos, documents and archives pertaining to domestic and religious life. Aside from the exhibits, there are videos and educational programs. There is also a small but adequate conservation laboratory and a welcome gift shop.

The modern structure has seven levels and an octagonal atrium serving as the central exhibition axis on the top. The clear glass dome allows ample natural light to flood the interior of the building.

Level 1, the ground floor, houses the gift shop and the restored interior of an old Romaniote synagogue of the Jewish Community of the Island of Patras. There are traditional cylindrical wooded cases for the Sefer Torah.

Level 2 presents the cycle of the Jewish Holidays, using as the central theme the Sabbath (seventh day). Here one can see Hanukkah menorahs, scrolls containing the Book of Esther (Meghilot), traditional Sephardic sugar sweets, or novias, a special tray for the Passover seder, and a shofa,r or liturgical musical instrument made from a ram's horn and used to celebrate Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur (the high holidays).

Level 3 holds historical documents, inscriptions that establish the history of the Jews in Greece. There are military uniforms, medals, photographs and press clippings. In addition, one can see an interesting exhibit showing the Jewish Greek contribution to Israel.

Level 4 contains a video room and guide.

Level 5 deals with Shoah or Holocaust, including clothing from concentration camps, photos and documents.

Level 6 is dedicated to regional traditional costumes from the 18th century onward, with wedding dresses, jewelry, belts, buckles, hats (fashionably embroidered) and official uniforms.

Level 7 reminds us of the different stages of life from marriage, circumcision, bar mitzvah (coming of age) and domestic life.

Level 8 & 9 are reserved for video-projection and educational presentations as well as periodic exhibitions, library, study room and photo laboratory. Nothing is forgotten.

A journey through this wonderful building is not only filled with memories but new insight into a great community, which grew and was partially destroyed. But the memory lives on…and the rewards to the visitor are mammoth.

The Jewish Museum of Greece is open daily 9 a.m. - 2:30 p.m., Sundays 10 a.m.- 2 p.m. and closed Saturday. There is a small admission charge and donations are welcome.

The museum is located at 39 Nikis Street - 105 57, Athens. Tel: 210 32 25 582, Fax: 210 32 31 577. Email: limg@otenet.gr. You can also visit www.jewishmuseum.gr.

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