|
Hagafen Cellars: On the Kosher Wine Trail in Napa Valley By George Medovoy, Editor Whether it's a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon or a delicate White Riesling, the vintages of Hagafen Cellars, a small, family-operated winery on the Silverado Trail, reflect the changed character of kosher wines worldwide. Hagafen, Napa Valley's only full-service kosher winery, sits at the end of a dusty, country road bordered by rows of vineyards and olive trees.
Here veteran winemaker Ernie Weir, dressed in a pair of worn jeans and a t-shirt, greeted us in his small tasting room with award-winning varietals - some of which have graced the table of White House kosher state dinners and events for the past 30 years. The tasting room had the look and feel of the Mediterranean region, which made sense given Weir's early exposure to agriculture while on a visiting stint at an Israeli kibbutz. In a corner of the room was a colorful mosaic table designed by his Tel Aviv-born wife, Irit. Weir returned to America via Napa - a place he called "the center of the universe" -- in the late 1970's and set about creating a special wine niche. "As a small producer," he said, "I looked for a niche that…would make me unique…that would separate me from the 300 other wineries."
(Hagafen's Ernie Weir greets visitors in his tasting room) That niche, of course, was and continues to be high-quality kosher dry wines, which appeal not only to general consumers, but to specifically Jewish ones -- "an assimilated (and) culturally and religiously very proud group of people, who are part and parcel of the fabric and the tapestry of American life." For religiously observant Jews, Hagafen is a real find while they're traveling on the road - a chance to sample kosher wines in a field so dominated by non-kosher wineries. But in reality, at least three-quarters of Hagafen's market is non-Jewish, showing up strictly to taste its excellent varietals. Thus, when tour buses empty out in front of Hagafen's tasting room, Weir can pretty much count on a broad mix of visitors, Jew and non-Jew alike - or, as he likes to say, "all of God's children." Indeed, some visitors to the winery who are unfamiliar with the meaning of Hagafen - it's Hebrew for "the vine" - have asked Weir if it's his family name.
(The Hagafen winery sits next to some of the vineyards) Weir earned a degree in viticulture from the University of California at Davis and produces a wide variety of wines from organically-grown grapes: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Zinfandel, as well as Chardonnay, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, White Riesling, Brut Cuvee sparkling wine, and a late-harvest dessert wine. During our visit, my wife and I sampled a number of wines, including the Late Harvest 2008 Sonoma Coast Sauvignon Blanc, a delicious dessert wine evoking the style of French Sauterne, and the 2005 Reserve Prix Napa Valley Estate Bottled Merlot Vichy Vineya, which offers a spicy and cherry-filled taste. Wine tasting is available in the tasting room or outside at garden tables, where you can take in peaceful valley scenes within a stone's throw of Hagafen's own vineyards. As we walked under the arbor, I could sense something magical about it all - a good glass of wine, vineyards basking in the California sun, and the sounds of chirping birds in the background. With
cheese and bread, you can make a picnic out of it!
(Wine tasting at Hagafen can also be enjoyed in a patio setting) Hagafen produces about 8,000 cases a year, small compared to giant producers, but it has won awards alongside national and international wineries, including competitions and blind tastings at the Atlanta International Wine Summit, the California State Fair, New York's Grand Harvest Awards, and the Pacific Rim International Wine Competition. (Hagafen wines are also sold in Ontario and Quebec). Its latest appearance at the White House was for the inaugural Jewish American Heritage Month, where guests tasted Hagafen's Sparkling Wine, and one of the honored guests was none other than Brooklyn Dodgers baseball legend, Sandy Koufax. Hagafen's Prix special reserve is a play on words that combines the French for "prize" with a similar-sounding word taken from the age-old Hebrew blessing said over wine: "prie hagafen" - "fruit of the vine." Its newest release is a lower-priced, blended wine called "Don Ernesto," which Weir believes is a good wine for beginners. And here again, there's a story behind the name: it was taken from one respectfully bestowed upon Weir by Spanish-speaking vineyard workers. But whatever Hagafen wine you choose, once the cork comes out of the bottle, you'll discover Ernie Weir's unique contribution to heritage and taste in the Napa Valley. WHEN YOU GO... For more information, call (888) 424-2336 or visit www.Hagafen.com. Hagafen Cellars offers general wine tasting every day for $5, and $10 for its Reserve wines, both refunded with a wine purchase. Winery tours are given every day except Saturday by appointment only. Hagafen also offers a selection of mail order wines through its wine clubs. | ||
 |
