An Italian Odyssey Part I: To Sicily via Rieti and Wondrous Lakes & Mountains

By Arnie Greenberg
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Contact Arnie at ultours@gmail.com

(Arnie Greenberg's Italian odyssey took him to the romantic Amalfi coastline, seen above, and so much more)

Most people travel to Tuscany, Rome or the north of Italy. There is so much to see, and I still recommend a romantic Italian holiday in Venice, Como, Pisa, Lucca, Siena or San Gimignano.

Of course, the Chanti region is magical in all seasons, and Cinque Terre cannot be underrated. But there is more. From Rieti in the geographical center through the Sabine Hills, the lakes and mountains offer wonders that will startle you.

I recently traveled by car from Rome via the hill village of Orte, where the road heads east into the mountains. Through Nasrini andTerni to the rushing Cascade delle Marmore and Lake Piediluco, to the ancient hill village of Lasbro, and on to Rieti.

(Along the way, Arnie visited small villages hidden away in the Italian hills)

I visited the hill town of Rocca Sinibalda for nostalgic reasons you'll understand if you read the last chapters of my book, Double Deception, featured on this site in serialization. I descended via Tivoli and the wonderful garden at Villa d'Este.

A Stop in Anzio and a Visit to the Wat Cemetary

I traveled along the coast from Lido di Ostia near the Rome airport, stopped in Anzio and visited the war cemetery there and next door in Nettuno. I marveled at the Abbey at Monte Casssino, where so many men died during WW II. I drove past the castle of Casserta and visited old Naples, now becoming modern.

I spent days in beautiful Sorrento, and visited Capri and the Amalfi coast before sailing to Palermo and a vacation on the island of Sicily. I'll tell you about the towns, the people and the wonders of this dynamic island, where Etna sits silently waiting to erupt. It took me over a month to see what I will describe over the next weeks.

Italy: A Magnet for People Everywhere

Italy is a magnet for people from every corner of the earth. I even met a couple there who live only four blocks from me in Montreal! A close friend comes from a tiny Sicilian village. My head is filled with the wonders of this beautiful country, so follow me as I tell you what I discovered...

(Italian ceramics are plentiful and make wonderful gifts to take back home...or remembrance pieces for your own trip)

I have been to Italy often. I am normally a creature of habit, so the north of the country and Tuscany have been favorites for years. But not anymore. I have discovered new towns and new areas farther to the south - and it was a trip I'll not soon forget.

I decided to begin by heading into the Sabines, stately central hills east Rome which are dotted with hill villages and fresh water lakes, though I saw no signs of the famous Sabine women. Here I found a different Italy with fewer travelers from North America, fewer tour buses, easy-to-find hotels and quieter, more gentle villages.

The Ancient City of Terni

From the Rome airport, we drove about one hundred kilometers to the ancient city of Terni. There was little to do in this mid-sized city, but we did take in the sights, eat some very good meals, and plan out the rest of our tour.

Just outside Terni are the mighty Marmore Falls in southern Umbria; the Velino waters spill down into the Nera River, and the water is actually turned on and off on schedule. You can watch it begin at about 10 a.m. and pick up speed until it spills over into the three levels of the falls, which race to the lake below with a roar of cascading beauty. The sudden drop is awesome and noisy and falls about 500 feet.

Piediluco Lake: A Serene Haven in the Mountains

As you travel south, you reach Piediluco Lake, a serene haven in an otherwise mountainous area. Here the edges are filled with aquatic plants that include water lilies and watercress. In the huge lake there are grebes, water-crows, dabchicks, water hens, wild ducks, herons and kingfishers. You can also see swallows, buzzards and rare short-toed eagles. The woods around the town are populated by porcupines and wild boar. The waters are filled with chub, pike, eels, whitefish, perch and sunfish as well as carp and trout.

(Piediluca Lake is a serene haven in an otherwise mountainous area. The waters are filled with fish of many different varieties)

The only town is Piediluca, meaning "at the foot of Luco." The decaying castle of Luco can still be seen. ("Luco" comes from the Latin lucus or woods). The place is small, medieval and charming, and our lunch at the water's edge was memorable. It was here that I first realized how much eggplant was offered in the restaurants.

I was to see it everywhere and by the time I left Italy, I had sampled this 'glorious melanzane' countless times. Today at the Eco Restaurant I had a delicious plate of grilled eggplant and peperoni arrosto (roasted sweet peppers), smothered in local olive oil.

Local Red Wine and Fruitta Fresca

Local red wine or vino rosso and fruitta fresca (fresh fruit) added to the ambiance, spoiled only by the sounds of "Saturday Night Fever" on a nearby radio. I discovered that a copperto meant 'cover charge' and paid my bill of 22 euros for two people. It was a real bargain, even at about $1.30 US per euro.

As I look back on my notes, I recall so many memorable meals, particularly near Rieti in the Lazio region. I remember fondly the asparagus heads with melted Parmesan cheese, and the minced beef in extra virgin olive oil with onions, celery, garlic salt and red bell peppers. Then, of course, there were the deserts, including homemade strawberry ice cream and Ancient Roman Cheese cake - indescribably, light, sweet and simply wonderful! And any of the local red wines are enjoyable.

Wherever you go in Europe, you are surrounded by olive trees, and each area boasts that its olive oil is the best. Cooking and olive oil are as one word. I have dipped local bread into flat dishes of this precious oil to my delight. But never have I tasted a more smooth, pure, rich oil than I did in the Lazio region of the Sabines.

Perhaps it is the sun, the gentle rain, the soil or the magic of the manufacturer. The Romans knew about it centuries ago. Its reputation together with the real country cuisine is legendary. Castelnuovo di Farfa houses a museum of Olive Oil. It's worth a visit as is the Farfa Abbey in the Sabine Hills.

Settlements Go Back to the Bronze Age

The first settlements here go back to the Bronze Age. The Sabines were certainly inhabited long before they were conquered by the Romans in the 3rd century B.C. Since 1927, when the municipality of Piedoluco lost its independence, it has been an integral part of the city of Terni. Today the lake is a hive of activity, especially for rowing enthusiasts. The three- and four-man boats can be seen on the lake daily.

But my joy came from walking through the village when everything but the restaurants were closed for lunch. I especially enjoyed the fortress-like St. Francis Church and the highly-decorated boys and girls school facing the peaceful lake. The waters were alive with ducks and birds, as the rowers floated effortlessly. Aside from rowing and a center that hosts the national Olympic rowing team, there are canoeing enthusiasts, sailing and wind surfing facilities, too.

The region draws mountain climbers, kayakers, fishermen and tourists.

We chose to stay in Labro, a medieval hilltop village with panoramic views, peace and tranquility. Labro is a place for those who want to put the bustle of modern cities behind them. It is only a short drive from the lake. You'd never know that this city in the clouds was once contested during the turbulent Middle Ages.

The residents once fought fierce battles against their neighbors, especially against Luco. Labro now has an emotional and untouched feel to it. It is as if the cold grey stones were there forever, waiting to be rediscovered.

A Stay in the Palazzo Crispolti

(The Palazzo Crispolti afforded an opportunity to have a room overlooking the lake)

We stayed at the remodeled Palazzo Crispolti owned by two Belgian architects, who reshaped the old buildings into a homey and welcoming guest house. They can be reached at 0746 636135. For more information about the town, call 0746 636135. In Labro you park at the edge of town and walk to your destination, so pack lightly. You can go there in winter, too, when the mountain seems to command the Umbrian landscape of the rich Rieti valley.

(A spartan but comfortable room in the Palazzo Crispolti)

A word about the accommodations. I found the Palazzo to be a welcome haven, if somewhat spartan. We entered by a spiral staircase and were pleased to have a room with a view. There were actually two small rooms and a bathroom looking out over the lake. It was silent and clean.

(The Palazzo Crispolti was a welcome haven during the trip)

Having the Place to Ourselves

Our dinner, in the dining room, was shared with young, animated rowing enthusiasts and their instructors. Otherwise, we had the place to ourselves. Nearby we found a quiet area near the old theatre where we spent an afternoon alone admiring the distant hills, reading and sketching in what can be called an emotional snapshot. Silence is imposed as law for this village in the sky, a city praised by silence. Here there are traces of a lost time.

The next day we would head south to Rocca Sinibalda. This town and its majestic 72-room chateau was the main reason for my visit to the area. More about that in Part II.

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