The Memorable Rewards of the Loire Valley

By Arnie Greenberg
Contact Arnie at
ultours1@gmail.com

(Chateau is Chambord, pictured above, was built by Francois I as a hunting lodge. It is typical of the many chateaux in the Loire Valley. Chambord is set at the edge of a forest with flowing lawns, horse trails and a magical building with a double-helix spiral staircase).

France is exciting. I always say that you can drive down any road and find something unique, something truly interesting. Go in any direction from Paris, and there's something exciting waiting for you.

I have enjoyed Compiegne, north of Paris, historical because of the chateau and the wars. East of the city, I stayed in a chateau at Sancy Les Meaux. I continued to Reims and Eperny, where I sampled the best champagnes and visited war cemeteries that would move anyone.

I drove west to Giverny, where Claude Monet built his famous gardens, and Rouen where Joan of Arc met her fate. I walked through the trenches near Amiens and the poppy fields where thousands died in WWI. I drove to Versailles, to Chartres and Rambouillet. They all opened doors for me with their rich traditions.

But the greatest rewards come in the lovely Loire Valley between Orleans and Saumur.

It is a route that should be done slowly. I'd suggest stops in Blois and Tours. Here you can visit some of the most sumptuous chateaux in Europe.

See the Great Hunting Lodge at Chambord

Without going into great detail, let me include the great hunting lodge at Chambord, set at the edge of a forest with flowing lawns, horse trails and a magical building with a double-helix spiral staircase, supposedly designed by Leonardo da Vinci, so those going up would not meet those descending. What a great way to set up private 'rendez-vous,' certainly one of the chateaus nightly activities.

Blois Chateau is in the center of the old town, but that doesn't deter visitors. The inner courtyard has a spiral Francis I octagonal staircase. It is a masterpiece of early French Renaissance and a great spot from which to watch jousts in the yard below.

There was intrigue and murder attached to the home of Henri III, who suspected the Duke de Guise of heading a Catholic plot against him. De Guise was stabbed to death by Henri's guards.

This was all before the main royal residence was moved to Versailles in 1598 closer to Paris. Look for King Louis XII's porcupine symbol and crown or the earlier salamander symbol of Francis I.

The Romantic Pleasure Palace of Chenenceau

I'd select Chenenceau for my next visit. This romantic pleasure palace was built over a long period of time from 1500 onward. It was the home of Henri II's mistress, Diane of Poitiers.

When he died, the chateau was taken over by Catherine de Medici, who disgraced Diane by forcing her to move to a lesser chateau at Chaumont.

Chenenceau is built over the river Cher. Catherine transformed the bridge into an Italian-style gallery with black and white ceilings, the colors of mourning.

The chateau was saved from destruction during the Revolution and was completely restored in 1863. It is a fairytale place in a magical setting with a tree-lined avenue opening onto sculptured gardens and a turreted pavilion.

While the parking lot is constantly filled with buses, I never found Chenenceau crowded because of its size. Flauberet was right when he said it seemed to be 'floating on air.'

A Visit to Where Da Vinci Lives and Died

From Chenenceau, I'd go to Amboise. It's not that the chateau in the center of this old town is so impressive, but the town is inviting and a visit to Clos Luce, where da Vinci lived and died, is worth the stop. Models and plans of some of his inventions are on display here. It is also interesting to see the old troglodyte cave homes in the cliffs on the way to the Clos.

From Amboise it's a short distance to Tours, an ancient capital with modern hotels, wonderful restaurants and an old square, Place Plumereau. The town was built on the site of an old Roman city.

Destroyed during the Franco-Prussian War and again during WWII, it was restored and is a vibrant modern place now, especially Place Plumerau with its timbered buildings, a throw-back to the days when the British ruled here. The square is now a place to meet, eat and drink.

My Favorite Restaurant in Tours

My favorite restaurant in Tours is right on the main street only a block from the train station, and facing City Hall.

Brasserie de l'Univers at 8 place Jean Haures serves everything from Foie Gras and local recipes like Specialities Tourangelles, duck a l'orange, seafood, grilled meats, and some of the best deserts in Tours.

Operated by Monsieur Dore (pronounced Doh-ray), the main dining room has a 19th-century stained glass ceiling, but you can choose to eat outside, too, as this is an informal establishment with comfort and elegence designed for gourmet eaters. Tell Monsieur Dore that I sent you. We've become old friends over the years.

There is no need for reservations unless you are with a large group. There are places for 350 people inside and 150 outside. You can also call ahead at 2 47 05 50 92.

Just up the avenue to the left at 4 Place Thiers is the modern and efficient Hotel Tourone. It's 3 stars, but very comfortable and clean. It also offers group rates. Call 2 47 05 50 05.

You will also find countless 'caves,' where you can sample the local wines, especially nearby at Vouvray.

West of the city are three more chateaus that you must see.
Azay-Le-Rideau is the smallest but most beautiful with it's gothic turrets and special site on the Indre River. It's a favorite of mine and can be seen in only a few hours, along with the cute old town.

Call it 'Cinderella's Castle'

Usse (pronounced Oo-say) looks like Cinderella's castle with pointed turrets and white stone, and Villandry is famous for its patchwork of sculpted gardens with shrubs and flowers on three levels.

Only a visit to the kitchen garden, ornamental garden and water garden would explain the importance of this placid place. There is even a garden of love, which depicts the many faces of 'amour,' showing colors of passion, romance tragedy, fickle desire and betrayal.

There are other chateaux, gardens and historical villages along this fabled Loire Valley. Drive through slowly. Savor the smells, tastes and soft sounds of a rich man's Garden of Eden.

One can have a complete holiday in the area without tiring of the tidy communities, the wine and food, as well as the most wonderful Chateaux in France.

IF YOU GO...

The chateaux all have an entrance fee and ample parking. The tourist office in Tours or Blois will supply you with opening hours, which can change seasonally.

For detailed information about the Loire Valley, visit www.franceguide.com. For information on French chateaux, visit www.au-chateau.com.

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