Manof Chpt39

Chapter 39

(A count's estate in the area of Hautefort, pictured above)

They finally arrived at Chambord. It was more than Bruce expected. It had been the brainchild of Francois I and was constructed in the Foret de Boulogne. The château now stood where the original building once stood. From the distance one couldn't help noticing the astonishing skyline.

It reminded one of a jumble of forms that reminded one of an overcrowded chessboard. Here again it was said that the original design had been drawn up by Leonardo da Vinci. The main central building or 'keep' with its towers and terraces, was said to have been constructed by a force of 1,800 men. By 1685 the chateau had been enlarged to contain 440 rooms.

Four Circular Towers

The central keep had four circular towers. In the middle was an innovative double staircase leading to the roof terraces which included miniature spires, stair turrets sculpted gables and cupolas as well as circular balconies. Since those going up the staircase could not be seen by those descending, the balconies were perfect places for after hour rendez-vous or whatever the imagination can think of.

In the corners of the fortified courtyard there were two stair cases. These too were spiral in the style of the times. On the walls one could see the Francois I Salamander. It was everywhere. Marie Claude said there were seven hundred such emblems.
"I won't count. I'll take your word for that remarkable statistic."

They spent hours visiting the 16th century chapel, Francois's Cabinet or office which was a barrel-vaulted study that was later to be turned into an oratory. They viewed Francois's bedchamber and those of Louis XIV who made them the grandest in the chateau.

The chateau had been built as a hunting lodge and behind it were stables for the horses, coops for the falcons and kennels for the greyhounds. At various times there were over 500 falcons at Chambord. During the 16th century, Bruce was told the kind and his heirs were mostly occupied with hunting for boar and hawking. Close by were vast oak forests offered game for the court's favorite art.

Much to Amuse Bruce

There was much to amuse Bruce, but Marie-Claude spent an hour riding with a group of instructors in traditional and colorful costumes.

Bruce picked up a small pamphlet that described the history of the Chateau. It explained that after Francois I died, his son, Henri II continued the construction. Even later kings who were not involved with hunting continued to enlarge the chateau. By the 17th century there were 365 chimneys, one for each day of the year, plus 14 main staircases and 70 smaller ones. During Louis XIV's rule the chateau was visited often when plays by Moliere and operatic ballets were recreated in the 'old' style.

The state now owned the chateau and Bruce had to omit many of the rooms because of the repairs going on. It would not be complete for over thirty years.

Finally, they returned to the car and headed towards Orleans. This was once the main city in France's movement towards the arts. It was, in the 13th century, a popular place for artists, writers and troubadours. It was the royal court here that gave rise to the sudden rash of construction of chateaus along the Loire River.

They stopped at the grand Domaine des Portes de Soulongre an inviting hotel in an island of greenery a few miles south of the city. It was surrounded by 900 acres of land that Marie-Claude said was destined to be a golf course. Bruce enjoyed the grandeur of the rooms and the display of stuffed animals taken from nearby forests.

Finally in a Tourist Mode

They were finally in a tourist mode and, since they would be returning to Hautefort the next day, they listed the sites worth seeing early the next day. After all, this was the city that saw a great battle between the English and Burgundian armies and the French, led by a teen-ager named Joan of Arc. Her house was now a museum on the rue Notre Dame and worth a visit for the collection in the museum.

(The comfortable living room, Hautefort)

They would also visit the Hotel Groslot on rue Notre-Dame. Marie-Claude explained that the word 'hotel' in France had a special meaning. It came from 'Hotel particular' and meant an estate house, manor or great residence of importance.

Here in this 16th century red brick building, a number of kings had stayed including Francois II who died here in 1560. He was there with his child bride, Mary, later Queen of Scots. Guarding the building they would find the heroic Joan of Arc that had been sculpted in 1840 by Princess Marie d'Orleans.

"Talking of Joan of Arc, " Marie explained, "there is a pageant held here in Orleans every April and May, coupled with the blessing of Cathedral Sainte-Croix, which is a wonderful site to see, especially with its Nave lit by the rotating spokes of the rose window, dedicated to Louis XIV, 'the Sun King'."

"Joan," she went on, "won the battle of Orleans in 1429, was captured in 1430 and died at the stake in Rouen in 1431. She was only nineteen years old at the time." She added, "She was canonized in 1920."

Dinner Included Coq au Vin...

Dinner at the hotel consisted of Coq au vin, salad nicoise and a wonderful Chateau Margeaux. They were given a large slice of Foie Gras on potato and onion galettes made in a fry pan and flattened with a spatula into the form of a small pancake. The waiter said it was 'compliments of the chef' who recognized Marie-Claude from a previous visit.

The chef came to the table with his huge white chef's hat. He kissed Marie-Claude's hand and welcomed her.

"Your Foie Gras is still the best in France," she smiled.

"Thank you,' said the chef. "but it was not my invention. Foie Gras has been with us since the Egyptians. One day you'll have to try it Roman style, served with figs."

Bruce added that he found the dish inspiring. The chef countered with an interesting note. "Many famous writers and composers claimed to be inspired by Fois Gras like Alexandre Dumas, Rossini and George Sand.
You must be a creative man."

"No," said Bruce, holding his long cigar, "I am just a man who knows good tasting food."

After the chef left, "Bruce suggested, "This was a good day, all things considered. It's not every day that one gets run off the road. I'll cherish the memory. "

"They sat looking out at the view and drank the rest of their wine."

Little did they know that the next day would be filled with more surprises.

(Click here for the next chapter)


	Chapter 39 (A count's estate in the area of Hautefort, pictured above) They finally arrived at Chambord. It was more than Bruce expected. It had been the brainchild of Francois I and was constructed in the Foret de Boulogne. The château now stood where the original building once stood. From the distance one couldn't help noticing the astonishing skyline. It reminded one of a jumble of forms that reminded one of an overcrowded chessboard. Here again it was said that the original design had been drawn up by Leonardo da Vinci. The main central building or 'keep' with its towers and terraces, was said to have been constructed by a force of 1,800 men. By 1685 the chateau had been enlarged to contain 440 rooms. Four Circular Towers The central keep had four circular towers. In the middle was an innovative double staircase leading to the roof terraces which included miniature spires, stair turrets sculpted gables and cupolas as well as circular balconies. Since those going up the staircase could not be seen by those descending, the balconies were perfect places for after hour rendez-vous or whatever the imagination can think of. In the corners of the fortified courtyard there were two stair cases. These too were spiral in the style of the times. On the walls one could see the Francois I Salamander. It was everywhere. Marie Claude said there were seven hundred such emblems. "I won't count. I'll take your word for that remarkable statistic." They spent hours visiting the 16th century chapel, Francois's Cabinet or office which was a barrel-vaulted study that was later to be turned into an oratory. They viewed Francois's bedchamber and those of Louis XIV who made them the grandest in the chateau. The chateau had been built as a hunting lodge and behind it were stables for the horses, coops for the falcons and kennels for the greyhounds. At various times there were over 500 falcons at Chambord. During the 16th century, Bruce was told the kind and his heirs were mostly occupied with hunting for boar and hawking. Close by were vast oak forests offered game for the court's favorite art. Much to Amuse Bruce There was much to amuse Bruce, but Marie-Claude spent an hour riding with a group of instructors in traditional and colorful costumes. Bruce picked up a small pamphlet that described the history of the Chateau. It explained that after Francois I died, his son, Henri II continued the construction. Even later kings who were not involved with hunting continued to enlarge the chateau. By the 17th century there were 365 chimneys, one for each day of the year, plus 14 main staircases and 70 smaller ones. During Louis XIV's rule the chateau was visited often when plays by Moliere and operatic ballets were recreated in the 'old' style. The state now owned the chateau and Bruce had to omit many of the rooms because of the repairs going on. It would not be complete for over thirty years. Finally, they returned to the car and headed towards Orleans. This was once the main city in France's movement towards the arts. It was, in the 13th century, a popular place for artists, writers and troubadours. It was the royal court here that gave rise to the sudden rash of construction of chateaus along the Loire River. They stopped at the grand Domaine des Portes de Soulongre an inviting hotel in an island of greenery a few miles south of the city. It was surrounded by 900 acres of land that Marie-Claude said was destined to be a golf course. Bruce enjoyed the grandeur of the rooms and the display of stuffed animals taken from nearby forests. Finally in a Tourist Mode They were finally in a tourist mode and, since they would be returning to Hautefort the next day, they listed the sites worth seeing early the next day. After all, this was the city that saw a great battle between the English and Burgundian armies and the French, led by a teen-ager named Joan of Arc. Her house was now a museum on the rue Notre Dame and worth a visit for the collection in the museum. (The comfortable living room, Hautefort) They would also visit the Hotel Groslot on rue Notre-Dame. Marie-Claude explained that the word 'hotel' in France had a special meaning. It came from 'Hotel particular' and meant an estate house, manor or great residence of importance. Here in this 16th century red brick building, a number of kings had stayed including Francois II who died here in 1560. He was there with his child bride, Mary, later Queen of Scots. Guarding the building they would find the heroic Joan of Arc that had been sculpted in 1840 by Princess Marie d'Orleans. "Talking of Joan of Arc, " Marie explained, "there is a pageant held here in Orleans every April and May, coupled with the blessing of Cathedral Sainte-Croix, which is a wonderful site to see, especially with its Nave lit by the rotating spokes of the rose window, dedicated to Louis XIV, 'the Sun King'." "Joan," she went on, "won the battle of Orleans in 1429, was captured in 1430 and died at the stake in Rouen in 1431. She was only nineteen years old at the time." She added, "She was canonized in 1920." Dinner Included Coq au Vin... Dinner at the hotel consisted of Coq au vin, salad nicoise and a wonderful Chateau Margeaux. They were given a large slice of Foie Gras on potato and onion galettes made in a fry pan and flattened with a spatula into the form of a small pancake. The waiter said it was 'compliments of the chef' who recognized Marie-Claude from a previous visit. The chef came to the table with his huge white chef's hat. He kissed Marie-Claude's hand and welcomed her. "Your Foie Gras is still the best in France," she smiled. "Thank you,' said the chef. "but it was not my invention. Foie Gras has been with us since the Egyptians. One day you'll have to try it Roman style, served with figs." Bruce added that he found the dish inspiring. The chef countered with an interesting note. "Many famous writers and composers claimed to be inspired by Fois Gras like Alexandre Dumas, Rossini and George Sand. You must be a creative man." "No," said Bruce, holding his long cigar, "I am just a man who knows good tasting food." After the chef left, "Bruce suggested, "This was a good day, all things considered. It's not every day that one gets run off the road. I'll cherish the memory. " "They sat looking out at the view and drank the rest of their wine." Little did they know that the next day would be filled with more surprises. (Click here for the next chapter)