Mural Paintings in Lyon, France
Turning Building Decoration into an Art

By Arnie Greenberg
Contact Arnie at
Ultours1@aol.com

(One of a variety of 69 sculptures, above, in Lyon to mark Quebec City's 400th anniversary)

This summer I found a city that turns building decoration into an art.

If you live in an urban area or have traveled to a major center, no doubt, you have witnessed the eruption of ugly graffiti that has become part of the urban landscape.

Not only is it on buildings, but I've seen it on trains, subway cars and schools. One day I watched two grown men paint 10-foot-high numbers on the side of an apartment building. They worked from above and wielded brooms laden with white paint. Nobody stopped them, and now, two years later, the numbers are still there.

Today's graffiti is mostly a result of angst in major cities where people who just don't care, deface private buildings with grotesque smudges of every kind. In Paris, where buildings are often painted brown or gray, these ugly blights on the landscape are painted over and for a few weeks they look clean.

In Canada where I live, this urban blight is difficult to control. I once complained to city authorities about a mural of ugly colors and symbols, some down right offensive. They assigned a man to look at it. His answer my to my anxious complaint: he thought it was nice.
I think not.

(It's a Trick of the Eye, not the real thing, as a "painter" paints the side of a building)

You can imagine my reaction when I found myself in Lyon, a city with over 150 painted walls. They are, to my mind, works of art. Having written once before about Trompe-L'Oeil (Trick of the eye) in Perigueux, I now entered the grand city of Lyons to a dazzling array of pictorial art, whose roots are common to all civilizations. They still fool the eye, but they are popular decorations meant to enhance rather than destroy.

This is the first art form known to man, going back some 35,000 years ,with figurative murals appearing in Europe during the Paleolithic era. Shapes and colors graced a neighborhood wall. Frescoes adorned churches.

However, what I did see in Lyon was something else. The unusual murals make the city special. They light up neighborhoods and bring a smile to a visitor's face. Some visitors travel to Lyon just to see these murals. But that is only one of the reasons they go there. Lyon is a wonderful place if you like art or food.

(Murals on the sides of buildings light up the city of Lyon)

The historical value of this art form is incalculable, bringing the city to life. Historically, we have had frescoes, wall decorations and murals dating back to Pompeii, transmitting messages of both love and revolt. In New York in the late 60s, underprivileged Black and Latin American minorities used graffiti as a form of individual expression. In Berlin it was used to show opposition to Communism. In France, in the 80s, the art form flourished in the suburbs. This was symbolic of a mixed society.

This continues, but in Lyon it has taken a turn. It enhances the look of the city and is now an object of pride.

Tony Garnier's unique contribution to this art form has transformed one section of Lyon that is a must for visitors to this illuminated city. It is a treat for the eyes and the palate, but that's a subject for another day. Imagine my delight when our tour-bus paused in front of some of these artistic and cultural masterpieces.

(Tony Garnier's Urban Museum -- These are not posters. The entire side of the building is a mural).

I roamed the streets with a mural guide in my hand. I photographed about 50 designs. It made the city a moving art gallery. And along the way I discovered numerous good restaurants in this city of food. The chocolate shops beckoned me, as did the French pastry shops, and everywhere there were bears.

The guide said there were 69 sculptures of bears to celebrate Lyon and Quebec City's 400th anniversary as a city. Of course, there were many Lions on the streets, too, but I assume they were always there.


(Another of 69 sculptures to celebrate Quebec City's 400th anniversary)

The artists displayed are from Canada, France, Italy, Indonesia, Salvador, Japan, Algeria, and Hong Kong. It is a wonderful tribute to the celebrations that are taking place in Quebec City until July.

Guided tours can be taken at
Tony Garnier Urban Museum Association,
4 rue des Serpollieres, 69008 Lyon.
Tel: 04 78 75 16 75

(Is the building jutting out? No, it is simply a visual illusion)

There are excellent examples of this art form in other countries, including Israel, Japan, Russia and not far from Montreal,
Lyon has also dedicated space to the Mexican muralist, Diego Rivera. Some very intricate murals can be seen today.
I must add that this is only one reason to see this city. It is famous for its food, which my wife and I sampled.

The city, on the shores of the Rhone and the Soane, is clean, safe and alive with people shopping or just seeing the sights. There is part of the city that is high above the river, offering wonderful views. The churches are special and the museums are world class.

(A white lion in the city of Lyon)

I do recommend the Museum of The Resistance, which is graphic and well designed. Here you can learn of the exploits of resistance head, Jean Moulin, and the trials that took place after World War II.

Take your camera along. The statues are worth remembering and photographing. Some are eight stories high. Even the people were cordial and helpful. It's a small Paris with the joie de vivre you'd expect in this beautiful setting.

(And, yes, that's really me. The books looked so life-like, I wanted to read one)

 

Other country contact numbers are:
Jerusalem
Sara-ma@bezequint.net
Moscow
Irina@veranda7.ru
Canada
Cc@citecreation.fr

www.muralecreation.com