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The Splendid Italian Riviera By
Arnie Greenberg (Magical Portofino is pictured above. -- Photo courtesy Italian Government Tourist Office) The
west coast of Italy, the Italian Riviera, is a trip unto itself. There are beaches, ferry crossings to exotic islands, theme parks and great cities. And it can all end on the Amalfi drive if you have the time. If not, do it in pieces. Italy by car or train is filled with options. It's a reward at every turn... It's a long drive from the French border to the tip of Italy. But it's worth it if you don't have to rush. To get into the main areas for beauty and history, you'll have to breeze through the upper highway past San Remo, Savona and Genoa. That's not to say that this coast and the old Via Aurelia aren't interesting.
(San Remo at sunset is stunning) But it's very slow going and the towns have lost their charm to the quest for modernity. They are no longer the holiday spots of Italy. Genoa itself is a mega-city famous mostly as a seaport and center for ferryboats to Corsica, Sicily, Tunis and even Barcelona. But just beyond Genoa things change. Turning Seawards Before Rapallo I remember well the first time I turned seaward just before Rapallo. As I passed through Nervi, the oldest winter resort on the eastern coast, I couldn't believe what I saw. Here, 3 km east of the main road, I found Santa Margherita with its crowded beaches, Edwardian-style hotels and fast food stalls, and traffic everywhere. There were less people during the winter and mostly the resort closed down. But farther along the seaside rood, we discovered one of the prettiest small harbors in the country. We descended into a large square surrounded by multicolored buildings that seemed to hang from the hills. This was Portofino, and the walk around the protected harbor is a memory I cherish. Once a tiny fishing village, the port is edged on three sides by high cliffs.
(The Liguria Hotel in stunning Portofino) Wealthy Italians discovered it. It was here, on a cold February morning, that we found a typical bar where the coffee was hot and the biscotti popular with the few tourists and the locals who dipped theirs in their wine. Here there are no beaches, few hotels, but many bars, boutiques, nightclubs and fishing boats. It is a picture-perfect place to spend a few days. The hotels are of high standard but mostly closed during the winter. You can stay in Santa Margherita and walk to Portofino. It's unusually pretty as the road hugs the Mediterranean shore. I chose to stay on the seaside road past Sestri Levanto, where the Helvetia Hotel faces the Bay of Silence onto the Via Auralia that skirts the famous area called Cinque Terre. The Cinque Terre The Cinque Terre are five small villages or 'Five Lands' perched on the mountainside in coves surrounded by vine terraces looking west to sea. Over the last few years they have become popular with backpackers or people looking for romance, seclusion and unbelievable scenery. Monterosso can now be reached by road. The old church seems to be facing the sea. The popular myth is that old-time smugglers would fool the customs guards by telling them they were arriving on boat to try to turn the church to the shore. The church looks like a boat and faces the sea as if it's about to go out to sea. The smugglers used to pretend they were stupid and would pretend they were trying to turn the building, if caught by police. The Busy Port of La Spezia The busy port of La Spezia is a typical port with steep streets in the old section. On the heights, you can see the blue Spezia gulf and Lerici on the one side of the bay and beautiful Portovenere on the other. Many
celebrities lived here, including Lord Byron, D.H. Lawrence and Shelly, who drowned
in a sea accident here.
(La Spezia) From here it's only a short hop to Carrara to the east. When I first saw the jagged mountains, I thought they were covered with snow. I soon learned that they were open pit mines filled with pure white marble. Along the highway the marble depots boast huge slabs of almost every color. It
is the mineral content that determines the color. A Direct Route to Pisa From here you can take a direct route to Pisa. This ancient sea power finds itself miles from the sea as the water has receded. Not so the moisture under the leaning tower which accounts for its instability. However, they now allow people to climb to the top of this beautiful bell tower. When you get to Livorno, you are due west of Florence. This city is highly recommended. I know of no one who ever went to Florence and didn't fall in love with it, even though it is crowed and often noisy. But you have to make a choice. If this will end your tour, you can fly or take the train from Florence. If you want to continue through Tuscany, many surprises await you. It's Paradise, especially in the fortified hill cities. If you want to head south to Rome, you are only hours away. There's an almost direct super highway via Livorno to Grosetto and the possibility of visiting one of the islands, now connected by road, like Ortobello. I suggest that you visit the unusual Tarot Gardens with 22 bigger-than-life statues, executed by the French artist and onetime model, Niki de St. Phale. I promise you will see one of the most unusual gardens in Europe.
(The Tarot Gardens with their bigger-than-life artwork) On the way to Grosotto you can stay on the coast at Piombino. From here it is only a short boat ride to Elba, where Napoleon was sent to exile. When you enter the region of Rome, you begin to understand the statement, 'All roads lead to Rome'. It is a city you cannot avoid. Again, you can spend time in this rich, historical metropolis, fly home or take a train to almost anywhere. Near the Great Site of Pompeii My suggestion would be to see Rome, then continue south towards Naples. I'm not big on Naples, but you are near the great site of Pompeii and only a quick hovercraft ride to Capri. Visit the Blue Grotto and go up to the top for lunch with one of the most celebrated views in southern Italy. Another
boat will take you to Sorrento or back to your car at the dock in Naples. From
there you can head along the coast past Sorrento to villages built into the hills
all the way to Positano and Amalfi. This Amalfi Drive is world famous and worth
visiting. From France through Genoa and down to Positano, with stops as recommended could take about three weeks. Do it in stages if you have less time, but don't race through it. There
are treasures in each city, and you will miss great Italian treasures if you rush.
Then again, you can always come back! (Click below for more travel).
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