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Off the Beaten Path in China: The Walled City of Pingyao Story
and photos by Sheila Shalhevet Sheila Shalhevet is a writer and photographer who lives in Israel. Her husband Yosi was the first official representative of Israel to China from 1990 to 1992. She welcomes reader comments at: sheilashal@yahoo.com. View more of her photos at www.sheilashalhevet.com. (In her photo of the silk shoes above, Sheila Shalhevet captures a momentary sense of the charm and mystery itself of the Chinese walled city of Pingyao) About six years ago, I read an article in a newspaper about Pingyao and declared that we must go there. It sounded fascinating - a newly discovered walled city far away from the regular tourist path that had been declared a World Heritage Site in 1997. My husband Yosi and I are in China at least once a year, and each time chose an interesting site away from Beijing to visit or re-visit. We have place after place to go or return to and optimistically added Pingyao to this list. The years went by and we went to Taer in Xinning, Wu Tai Shan, Kashgar, Shanghai, Jiuzhai Gou, the high Tibetan Plateau in Sichuan and many other places, each more exciting and exotic than the next. The further away and remote the place, the more enticing it was. Pingyao was always there on the list for next time. By April, It Was Pingyao's Turn By April 2005, it was Pingyao's turn. We planned the three-day trip together with our friends Jia and Shi, and at 7:40 in the evening we boarded the overnight train in Beijing. We all shared a first-class cabin, which was comprised of two uppers and two lowers and a thermos of hot water under a table beneath the window. And so we set off on our middle-aged adventure. The first task was to decide who slept on top and who on the bottom. After several attempts to be a hero and get into the upper berth (I never had problems climbing up before, and so I decided they must have removed a ladder or something). Excuses, excuses. I was relegated to a lower berth, which did not make me unhappy. Jia didn't even put up a pretense of equality. She was a lower-bunker from the beginning. A 10-Hour Train Ride with Private Lavatory Since train rides are a separate story in themselves and riding the rails in China is an adventure, suffice it to say that the 10-hour ride was 12 hours, and the communal lavatory conditions have marginally improved, thanks to the attendant locking the doors at either end of our carriage, which meant that there was no sharing with other classes. Although I firmly believe in full equality, sometimes I just do not want to share.
(Pingyao is a combination of two words, meaning flat and remote, but it may also suggest a longing and tired soul seeking a peaceful and serene place) Upon our arrival, we were taken by electric cart, the main form of transportation aside from bicycles or walking (no cars within the city walls except in the evenings and then only to residents with permits) to our guesthouse, Tian Yuan Kuai. The place had a classic courtyard of grey stone within the walls of the city, where we were shown to our small but thoroughly modern rooms. The entire complex oozes charm and transported us immediately to another time - a feeling that stayed with us until we left. The bed was on a kang, there were hot and cold water dispensers and lovely showers. The guesthouse boasts its own restaurant, the kitchen being at the back of the courtyard, which means that the waitresses shuffle back and forth through the complex in order to serve the food in the front. Tables are or inside a restaurant in the entrance reception area. It is a lively place. I had a cup of not-so-great coffee, some toast, a quick wash…and then it was off to explore. We placed ourselves in Jia and Shi's hands and thus saw everything and more. Pingyao: A Remote, Distant Place First, the name Pingyao. Ping stands for flat, even, smooth, and equal, impartial. Yao stands for remote, distant. To our friend Peter, to whom I turned in order to understand the meaning of the words Ping Yao, it suggests a longing and tired soul seeking a peaceful and serene place after having been through countless tribulations and disillusions…a mysterious place, difficult to reach, remote… a place you know exits somewhere, but only accessible when you are at peace with yourself. Before we set out, Jia gave us a wonderful history lesson when I asked her the meaning of Pingyao. And so we learned that as early as the 21st century B.C. (the Neolithic Age), there were human activities in this area, and it was the place where ancient pottery was produced. The name was known as Pingtao, meaning peace and pottery manufacturer. From 827 B.C.-782 B.C., there was an important military camp about 6 kilometers from the present Pingyao and therefore a mud wall was built around the city over 2700 years ago. During the Han Dynasty (206B.C-220 A.D.), the city changed its name to Pingyao (meaning a far away, peaceful city). In 1370, the old city wall was rebuilt in brick for military purposes and still exists as constructed. Magnificent Architecture and Historical Relics Pingyao's historic significance lies in its magnificent architecture and historical relics. It has preserved the original style of the city's layout, and its wall, streets, houses and temples remain as they once were. . (Pingyao's people greet the visitor with a genuine warmth)
The city's history reached new heights in 1823 due to the development of a banking system. At that time, as trade developed in China and trade routes evolved, it was difficult to carry the enormous amounts of silver needed for business. There arose a need for an institution to help solve money problems. Pingyao
happened to be in the right geographical spot, and as the local people excelled
in martial arts, they were the ideal ones to protect transport of money. At the
same time, the local people also developed a highly sophisticated financial system.
By the end of the Qing Dynasty, there were 22 banks in Pingyao, which was unbelievably
two thirds of the entire number of banks in China. The life of the rich business people in the old days was extravagant. Jia went on to explain that until visiting Pingyao, her knowledge of wealthy people in old China was confined to royal families, high-ranking officials, and scholars who became officials. The ranking of hierarchy in China was scholar, farmer, worker and businessman. So she was surprised and did not expect to see business families to have such magnificent houses and follow the same philosophy of Confucianism. Once Prosperous Pingyao Fell on Bad Times But Pingyao's history also proves that thriving economies can collapse with the changing political systems and when governments fail to protect them. And so the once prosperous Pingyao became very poor after the Japanese War. Armed with this history, out we went to see the Pinyao of today. The streets are narrow, filled with chattering people, shops are full of goods that I had not seen since first arriving in China early in 1990; the predominant color was gray, accessorized here and there with red or the bright colors of the uniforms of the various shop girls. This is no Beijing or Shanghai. It is indeed a walled city in the middle of nowhere that exudes charm and makes you feel that you are in a China of another era. We did the requisite museums, where history came alive. We were impressed by the fact that there are English explanations.
(From Pingyao's city tower, one is transported to another time) From the city tower, we felt magically transported to another time. There were temples and the martial arts college, the city tower, the banking museums, and preserved houses. At the old government office, we were treated to an enactment of a trial. There was a lacquer museum and the old bodyguard training center. Buying Pingyao's Famous Silk Shoes...and Beef We saw traditional silk and cotton shoes being made and of course, had to buy a few pair. Jia and Shi bought some of the famous Pingyao beef for later. I yearned for a diet coke, but apparently there are no weight conscious people in these parts. In and out we went. We examined carts of goods both real and instant antiques, munched on biscuits, dodged bicycles and were entranced by the giggling young ladies who tried to entice us into their shops to buy something. There is a feeling of charm and naivety. There are no Pingyao tee-shirts or mugs. I took photo after photo, and Shi, not to be outdone, took even more. We found a place that had a photo museum and discovered that every September thousands of photographers descend on Pingyao for a gathering and take pictures, which have been made into a book. Why didn't I know about this? I, too, would have come. The smiles did not leave my face, which became grimier by the minute. The air is as grey as the architecture. Don't forget that Pingyao is in the middle of Shanxi Province, an arid area and coal mining territory. Dusty is the key word. In the Cool Courtyard, Reading the Menu By
now, we were getting hungry and decided to return to our guesthouse to wash up
and have lunch. Okay, I did not love the food.
(A view of the courtyard from the room at the guesthouse) To pass the time while waiting for our food to arrive, Jia and I wrote names and address of shops and markets for the two teenage daughters who were looking forward to their idea of a shop-till-you-drop vacation. If I jump ahead about ten days, guess who I met as I was walking through the door of one of the largest markets in Beijing? From the amount of packages, warm greetings, and the fact that they were in line for the ATM machine, I gathered that our advice had been and would continue to be useful. Pingyao, as I said previously, is known for its beef (I am a strict vegetarian), its whole-wheat products (noodles and dumplings) and its savory cakes. So this is what we ordered. In addition we also ordered an eggplant dish, since I do not consider it a complete meal when in China without eggplant, some steamed broccoli and an apple soup that a friend had recommended. To top this off we also ordered a candied sweet potato dish, which is another Pingyao specialty. We were not going to be hungry. Pingyao's Food -- A Bit Oily The food was a bit oily, which is also a Pingyao culinary feature. One does not go to Pingyao for fine dining, but in all fairness the food was homemade, hot and fresh and typical of the area. Here and there were some bright moments. The candied potatoes were excellent, and I was also told that the meat-filled dumplings and the meat-filled savory cakes were great. The soup was fun, and I would order it again. I did not starve, believe me. And they DID have diet coke. A meal like this demands a bit of a rest, but not too long as now that we had done the museums and glanced at the shops, it was time to do the real touring and of course get to the wall. It was time to really poke around the shops, watch the people and take more photographs. We started toward the wall and stopped every five meters to look at an old clock, examine the beautiful silk shoes, talk to an old woman peddler who made and sold little wool figures of the twelve symbols for the years which of course we had to buy, or just to talk or kid around with a person here and a shop girl there. Pingyao's Animated Streets Everyone was so animated. The streets were alive with chatter and people eating and drinking and talking or shopping. It was the feeling of neighborhood where everyone still knows each other and there is time to stop and say a few words, or gossip while the children play games.
(Pingyao's animated streets are filled with chatter and people eating, drinking, shopping, and like this gentleman, riding rickshaws) These were happy sounds, and I began to feel a nostalgia for the days that I ran around outdoors playing games and making noise and not sitting alone at a computer as so many of our children and grandchildren do today. It is a sense of community, which was reinforced by turning a corner and seeing a group of people singing Beijing Opera with full traditional orchestra accompaniment while crowds of people gathered to watch. I learned a bit later that what I thought was a street performance was actually a memorial service for a person who had died recently. What a wonderful way to remember someone. Finally at Pingyao's Magnificent Wall The going was slow. We just had to stop and look and talk. Finally, we arrived at the wall -- and a magnificent wall it is, indeed. It has been reinforced, and I learned shortly after arriving home in Israel that the rickshaws are no longer allowed to take people for rides on the top for safety reasons. We climbed to the top and were treated to a panoramic site of the entire city. Wow! Even from here the feeling of yesteryear was pervasive -- a sight not to be missed.
(From Pingyao's famed wall, seen at the right, you are treated to a panoramic view of the entire city) We also met some of the town characters, who made our day. They are not to be missed. I, of course, did not want to come down to the street…and reality. What was in front of me was a film set of old China…except that it was real. It was getting late and dark and we had to walk all the way back to our guesthouse. Believe it or not Yosi, Jia and Shi were also talking food. I was still trying to get the last photos out of the little light that was left and like a small child or an avid photographer kept saying "One more." Back
we went knowing that we were leaving early in the morning to visit the Qiao Family
Compound about fifty kilometers from Pingyao and then to continue on to Taiyuan
to catch the bus for the seven-hour ride home. Yes the bus is faster than the
train. Sheila Eats Yappies, the Ultimate Junk Food I ate Yappies, which is an ultimate junk food, sweet-salty rice cookie-cracker, which I love, drank more bad coffee and had a great conversation with the owner of the guesthouse. By the end of the evening, I was so enthused that I was even thinking of taking a job in the guesthouse. A long, hot shower and a good night's sleep, and we awoke in the morning ready to go -- after even more bad coffee. By this time Jia and Shi had switched to tea. Our taxi came on time and off we went. We arrived at the compound area after an hour. It was still early and the vendors were not quite set up to hawk their wares. We walked the narrow streets to the entrance and were met by lo and behold the very building where "Raise the Red Lanterns" was filmed. Talk about being transported in time. This was a time warp. On the one hand, we had left the 21st century and had been transported to a China that one reads about in books and of course sees on films. On the other hand, we had to keep dodging the cables and electric lines of the television crew's equipment, as they were shooting a new series based on the story of "Raise the Red Lanterns." Making a Fortune from Tea and Bean Curd The courtyard itself is a castle in the shape of the Chinese character for "double happiness" It was built by Qiao Guifa, who made his fortune by selling tea and bean curd in Inner Mongolia and ended up owning more than two hundred stores and money shops. It is immense, comprising an area of over 8,000 square meters containing six large courtyards divided into 20 smaller courtyards with a total of 313 buildings within a high wall. The attentions to the details of the windows and doors are exquisite. And there are English explanations everywhere. Today the compound is, of course, a museum devoted to the story of the Qiao family as well as to the folklore of the times. Again the color theme was grey and red. Again I took photo after photo. It took hours to see and read it all. But we did it. All I can say is go there. Words will not make the feelings this place invokes come alive. The feeling of romance and history just takes over and makes you wish you had lived in these times forgetting all the hardships of the times themselves. Then it was time to go on to Taiyuan and the bus. At the bus station, which was loud, dusty and full of people coming and going, we bought some snacks and drinks to keep us going until we arrived in Beijing. We settled back in our seats, munched away as travelers the world over do the minute they are moving and thought about the wonderful time we had in Pingyao and of course where we would go next. (With thanks to Jia and Shi who made this trip so special and to Yosi whose patience is endless). (Click below for more travel stories!)
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