Siena in the Romantic Hills of Italy

By Arnie Greenberg
Contact Arnie at
ultours1@gmail.com

What could be better than a summer day in the Tuscan hills of central Italy? I can't think of a more romantic or even exciting setting for a holiday than the walled city of Sienna, especially during the historical Palio.

The Palio may be a horse race, but there's no other like it in the world.

The narrow cobbled streets protect you from the sun. The shops are modern, the wares exotic, the hotels up to date and affordable, the people friendly, and the setting is Middle Ages. Who could ask for more?

Siena gives the visitor that little extra. There's a beautiful cathedral looking down on the city. They call it the Duomo. The Campo Square is the center of the city. It is huge and famous. The tall bell tower casts its shadow on the people gathering below. On the day of the Palio, the square is overrun.

(A castle in the Siena countryside depicts some of the country's rich history)

Siena itself was once a banking center and rivaled Florence for financial control of Tuscany and beyond.

In summer you get a leisurely chance to smell, taste and experience life under the Tuscan sun. But that race is the focus of everyone as it approaches. There are really two races --one on July 2 and another on Aug. 14, and they take place on a makeshift track in the Campo Square.

The problem is getting a good place from which to see the event properly. The race and the festivities before and after are pure madness. It is Siena's yearly moment in the sun.

Each district vies for the right to have a horse represent it. The jockeys practice for months, trying to select the 'right' horse. Children beat drums to a haunting rhythm, and others hurl huge colorful banners into the air in a ritual that turns Sienna into a city obsessed.

Thousands jam into the square or hang from nearby windows just to get a glimpse of the race. A makeshift track of golden sand covers the stones as the horses dash for glory, sporting regional colors. At the corners, mattresses line the buildings. Accidents are common. It is a tradition to ride bareback, and the competitors select their mounts over a period of 20 days.

It all begins with a historical parade, in which 700 figures cross the city to the Campo Square.

(Cool waterfalls are refreshing in the heat of summer)

Unlike prizes offered in North American competitions, here the prize is a silk flag and a great deal of glory. A few days before the race, the final selection is made. The horses have been tested for their quality.
This culling is called the 'tritta'. Only ten horses will be selected. There will be trial races to allow horse and rider to know each other better.

Then, on the last day of the Palio comes the final test called the 'provaccia'. First, there is a blessing of horses and riders near the cathedral.

Then the procession begins. The race will be an utter frenzy of emotion, as the crowd gets lost in emotion. The winner's banner is brought into the square on a cart pulled by four oxen.

At the end of the circle of the Campo Square, the jockeys enter on their mounts, sporting the colors of their districts. For the start, or 'mossa,' to take place, nine horses line up between two parallel ropes, called 'canapi', according to an order selected at a drawing and communicated at the last minute by the starter or 'mossier'.

The tenth horse stays behind, ready for the signal at a precise moment, and he dashes forward to break through the starting rope with a single blow. A firecracker signals the end of the race after three laps around the tricky course.

(Like a magnificent painting, the rolling landscape of Siena unfolds before the eyes)

The winning horse can cross the finish line with or without the jockey. The winner claims the 'Palio' for his district.

Siena is in a party mood for the duration of the festivities, which continue long after the race is won. The trick is to find a space to watch and a hotel to stay in. I suggest the Hotel Athena within the ancient walls. But you may have to stay in the area and come in for the day.

Tuscany is the place everyone wants to go to. Siena is one of the places to include on your list. You may be swayed by the suggestions made by Frances Mayes in her book, Under the Tuscan Sun. Of course, you may have ideas of your own, but do not forget Sienna, especially during the Palio.