Venice: A Carnival of Sighs


By Arnie Greenberg
Contact Arnie at ultours@gmail.com

CARNIVAL BEGINS ON FEBRUARY 9 IN VENICE!

(Venice becomes a giant carnival of masks and costumes during the annual Carnival, as evidenced by the two revelers above)

It is said that as the prisoners left their trials at the Doge's Palace they looked back through a tiny window at the gondola harbor of Venice and they sighed.

It would be many years for many and an eternity for others who might never return and see that beloved city again. Hence, the name of that tiny 'Bridge of Sighs.'

When I leave Venice, I always look back and sigh. Leaving Venice is like leaving a beloved friend. The city is unique and sometimes somber. But it grows on you and you always dream of returning. They say, "See Naples and die." I say "See Venice and sigh."

The history of Venice is tied to the sea, to glass and to salt. From its port, great ships sailed the known world and adventurers like Marco Polo brought back new ideas, foods, items and styles. Venice conquered Constantinople and influenced much of the world's trade.

At home, they were independent and ruled by a Doge. His palace, on St. Marks's Square, is a must for visitors. Just drifting down the Grand Canal under the Rialto Bridge is an experience you'll long remember.

(The Doge's Palace in Venice)

Venice is a city of canals and even a short ride in a gondola is a vacationer's dream.

The city is crowded in the summer and rather quiet in the winter, but when carnival time arrives in February, the populace parades behind masks of many colors and wears costumes from a lost age. There is electricity in the air as the locals celebrate in their unique and beloved city.

Events inside historical palaces go on for days, but they spill over onto the neighboring islands, the peninsula and the mainland. Everything is disguised and animated by the thousands of masked faces, music and dance. There will be the expected carnival this year starting on February 9 with Venice Day when the city welcomes people from around the globe with concerts, harlequin shows, a grand concert and more.

This year there will be something especially for the children with competitions, famous performers, acrobats, clowns, magic creatures and fire-eaters. There will be an Enchanted Wood in Campo San Polo with games, music and more. On the mainland in Mestre the carnival starts on Feb. 18 with the Donkey's Flight, a parody of the Venetian Angel.

The entire experience enables one to see how Venetians spent their days, how they had fun, ate and dressed. It is said that "Venice is not the Carnival. Carnival is Venice."

Obviously the city is crowed and hotels are hard to come by. So plan early and avoid disappointment. Make a reservation, don your mask and enter an enchanting world.

But for those of you who can't get there in the winter, Venice is very much alive during warmer days when you can take a Vaporetto (water bus), water taxi or walk through the narrow streets from the station or Piazza La Roma to St. Mark's Square.

(From the St. Mark's Basilica)

Venice never disappoints you. Even with its aging buildings sitting on questionable water, it is outrageously beautiful. The architecture is Moorish and eye-appealing in a myriad of bright colors. Even when it rains, the city pulsates and there's something nice about forgetting the existence of car traffic.

Venice is a city of culture with world-class museums, and while the language is obviously Italian, most merchants and store clerks speak English.

The hottest months are July and August, and you may suffer the occasional afternoon storm. But there are restaurants, cafes, bars and historical buildings and churches to give you shelter.

A few cautions are offered. There is seasonal flooding (acqua alta), it's icy cold in part of the winter, and if you are walking, you might get lost. But that's part of the fun and at almost every intersection there's a black sign pointing to Piazza La Roma (the RR Station and start of the Grand Canal) or Piazza St Marco, which is the inner destination of everyone. Gondolas are overpriced. They are very touristy but more economical if you share one with others.

There is also much to see beyond the city. There are beaches on the Lido, and Murano houses the great glass works. You will marvel at the colors and designs. These creations are sold everywhere in the area, but buying something at a Murano factory is an experience.

Must see sites:
Doges Palace
Cathedral St Marco and square
Bridge of Sighs
Rialto Bridge
Ghetto
Peggy Guggenheim Museum
Clock Tower (panoramic view)
Harry's Bar


Mestre Hotels: (Mainland)
To save money, many people stay on the mainland in Mestre, near the Mestre train station. From there by train or bus you are connected to the Grand Canal.

Ambasciatori Hotel, Corso del Popolo 221, Tel: 041 531 0699

Hotel Plaza Viale Stazione 36 (god Mestre Location) Tel:041 929338
www.hoteland travelindex.com
Since cars are not allowed in Venice it is easier to stay in Mestre and go into the city on the No. 2 city bus or by train.


Venice Hotels: Could be expensive.

Hotel Danieli: First-Class Delux near San Marco, views…World historic site. Roof dining terrace, 14th century palace.
Astello 4196, Rive degli Schiavoni Fx: 041 520 0208


Sofotel 4 star Superior
S Croce 245, Giardino Papadopoli. Tel: 041 71 04 00 Fax: 041 71 03 94

Carlton & Grand Canal; Hotel
Santa Croce 578
Fx: 041 275 2250 Modern, four story dating from 1887, On Grand Canal, opposite main train station.


Suggested Reading:
Merchant of Venice…Shakespeare
Death in Venice…Thomas Mann
Death at La Fenice…Donna Leon

SUBJECTS:
Masks
Costumes
Glass
Cats
Architecture
Marco Polo
Fenice Theatre

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