A Clash of Titans: I Visit Waterloo

By Arnie Greenberg
Contact Arnie at:
ultours@aol.com

For a history buff, the battlefield at Waterloo always interested me, and so it was that I was not at all disappointed by my visit.

The ground at Waterloo looked parched and peaceful the day I stood high over the farms that were once a major battleground. Here, on the 40-meter mound of earth boasting a British lion, I scanned the flat land where Napoleon came to a military end and France lost 32,000 men.

On June 1815, the land was drenched with the rain of the previous day. By 9 p.m. that same land would be sodden with
the blood of French, English and Prussians. For Frenchmen it was a sad day of final defeat.

Napoleon's "Waterloo"

The clash of titans brought Napoleon, Wellington and Blucher to that spot that might otherwise have become unknown. Wellington led British and Dutch troops, while Blucher led the Prussians. That was before Prussia and the Germanic states were united. Now the word Waterloo has taken on a new meaning. It was the end of Napoleon's dreams. It was indeed 'his Waterloo.'

About 20 km south of Brussels, a one-day battle left its mark on France, Europe and the world. The little corporal, as they called him, would surrender soon afterwards and be sent off to St. Helena…and exile.

Many years later, that spot is hallowed ground. It signifies the end of hostilities for a time. France's next enemy was again the Prussians who waged war on their soil in 1870-1.

Visiting a Waterloo Museum

I gazed over the horizon trying to visualize what had taken place. It is impossible to do that, but in the huge museum at the Waterloo field of battle, visitors can now walk around a giant fresco panorama showing various stages of that gory battle. The panorama is 110 meters long and 12 meters high. It's like being in the middle of it, but not quite. There is also a film to help you see the great horse charges, the reconstitution of the battle, and the fields filled with the dying and wounded. If that doesn't get the message across, you can visit the wax museum realistically recreating the major players and the fear, fatigue and hostility of the day.

Of course, if you are there on June 18, the anniversary of the battle, you can see men in various uniforms marching or forming lines of defense. There are guided tours, or you can walk around freely.

Of course there's an entrance fee of about $10 with discounts for seniors, children, families and student groups.
To climb La Butte du Lion one must pay a fee of about $3,
which I highly recommend.

There are also a number of good restaurants on the site, including Le Cambronne, Le Bivouac de l'Empereur and the Wellington Café. There is even place for 150 people holding seminars and cocktail parties.

The museum of 14 rooms boasts many documents and authentic souvenirs.

There are a few hotels in Waterloo, but it's so close to Brussels, you can visit Le Champ de Bataille (the field of battle) on a day trip.

Many say that Blucher saved the day by arriving in time to turn the tide. Wellington went on to great fame in Britain and Napoleon's right-hand man, Marshal Ney, was disgraced for not being able to successfully help Napoleon.

Napoleon's Bitter Defeat

For Napoleon himself it was a bitter defeat. Soon afterwards, he surrendered and was sent to St. Helena and exile for his remaining days. Years after his death, his remains were placed in the great central hall of Les Invalides in Paris, still a popular place to visit.

The battle was momentous. The reign of Napoleon was an age of glory for France. Today, it is all history. It repeats in different ways. I wonder how much we learned by it. Yet, I think it worthwhile to visit if you are ever in Belgium. Your children might enjoy it too. It is open seven days a week except Christmas day. Over 250,000 people visit the site each year.

For more information, go to www.waterloo1815.be
Tel: 32 2 385 19 12 or Fax: 32 2 385 00 52

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